
Partidas = la tristeza. Yes, it's sad to go. But the sights continue to amaze: I woke early, returned my key, and set off in a taxi for the ferry. BA's docklands are expansive, though the view of the skyline from the water is more interesting than impressive.

Across the bay lay another country, literally. Colonia is a little Uruguayan outpost where Argentines go for the weekend. This morning it hadn't quite woken up yet, and nothing disturbed the quiet eden on the edge of the brown sea:




a good sign for mate drinkers everywhere




From Colonia I took the bus to Montevideo. This was one of the most beautiful rides I've ever had, rolling along the highway through the pampas. Montevideo is more hectic and less antique than BA, and I felt more conspicuous walking about on my own. The taxi drivers are friendly and knowledgable, though, and more than eager to play tour guide. And there are lovely places for afternoon coffee:

